Author: Alison

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Tips for a Longer-lasting Cage

Cages can be a big investment and choosing the right cage can be a tough decision, so it is important to make your purchase last. Cages are now powder-coated to protect the metal underneath and to give the cage a nice finish. Typically the more frequently you wash the cage, the more exposure it has to water, which can lead to rust. But, it is important for your bird’s health AND yours to keep the cage clean and sanitary, so try these cage cleaning tips:

  • Avoid power-washers which may be too strong and can chip or damage the powder-coating; or opt for a lower setting.
  • If you wash your cage frequently, or if it is a necessity due to an extra-messy bird, dry the cage quickly by toweling off the excess water.
  • If your cage does not need frequent washing, opt for “spot-cleaning” areas and only washing the grate and tray. For the rest of the cage, use a lightly damp rag to wipe off the dust and dander.
  • The largest area of damage tends to be on trays. Bird droppings are acidic and over time can wear through the powder-coating. Cut a piece of plastic to the size of your tray and use papers or bedding on top of the plastic.
  • Change papers or remove soiled / wet bedding daily. If left for long periods of time, moisture from the droppings can cause the powder-coating of the tray to bubbling and rust.
  • Avoid using harsh metal wire brushes for scraping and cleaning. Instead use Poop-Off to help break down droppings and use plastic bristle scrubbers or sponges.
  • The smaller the mess, the smaller the task- don’t wait until droppings are caked on like concrete. Each night take just a few minutes to wipe up messes with a damp paper towel.
  • Don’t store unused cages outside. Over time, moisture in the air and UV from the sun can damage the powder-coating.
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Green Eggs

Green eggs, (hold the ham) is a super easy way to incorporate nutritious leafy greens into your bird’s diet. Many types of vegetables can be cooked and pureed to mix with the eggs- the key is not to add too much puree because them the egg can’t bind when it cooks.

Ingredients

  • 2 eggs
  • 3/4 cup kale

Directions

1. Find a plastic cup that can be used with an immersion blender, or use a small food processor.
2. In the cup or processor, crack and add the 2 eggs.
3. Wash and rough chop your greens.
4. Blend the egg and kale together. It will be airy and liquid-y.
5. Pour the mixture into a pan on medium heat and scramble until fully cooked.

Extra egg will need to be refrigerated and stored no longer than 2-3 days.

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Nest Boxes

Birds are impressive animals, able to construct nests out of mud, grass, and twigs without hands or tools. While there is an exception or two, parrots are one group of birds who do not build nest. Parrots prefer to find cavities in logs and tree trunks and do a little (or a lot) of chewing. This is why, when breeding, nest boxes are offered that simulate a small, dark, nest cavity.

There are two main materials for nest boxes: wood, and metal. Wood boxes are usually less expensive, but also easily chewed, and should be changed after each clutch or yearly because they can absorb droppings and harbor bacteria. Metal boxes tend to be more expensive, but are more durable and can be more thoroughly sanitized. In outside aviaries, metal boxes have a tendency to get dangerously hot in summer and cold in winter.

There are also a variety of shapes and styles of nest boxes: cubes, tall boxes, L-shaped and Z-shaped boxes, and even barrels for very destructive parrots like macaws and cockatoos. Some nest boxes are designed to be secured inside the cage, and others are made for outside if your cage has a nest-box door.

  • 5″ – 9″ rectangular boxes are used by finches, lovebirds, parrotlets, and cockatiels.
  • Taller, and larger boxes can be used by amazons, greys, eclectus, and other medium-sized birds with short tails.
  • Nests like L- and Z-shaped boxes are useful for long-tailed species such as ringnecks, conures, and rosellas.

You want to insure that your box is not too small for your birds as it can become cramped and lead to broken eggs or deformities in chicks. Sometimes it is trial and error to see what style box your parrot pair prefers.

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Molting

What is molting?

Molting, in birds, is when old feathers are replaced by new feathers. These new feathers are the sheathed “pin feathers” which eventually open up to reveal the new feather. Molting is important because in the wild, feathers will ultimately become damaged or worn-out, so a bird must be able to replace those feathers or they will become vulnerable to predators and the elements! As adults, most birds molt at least once or twice per year. Feathers are usually replaced symmetrically. You may notice this if you clip your parrot’s wings- if 2 or 3 feathers have grown in on a wing, those same feathers are usually grown in on the other wing also.

In the wild, molting may occur as specific times of the year. We don’t always notice it like this with birds in captivity though because we have altered their natural cycles which regulate molting like temperature, light, and food availability.

Molting takes energy and depletes nutrients, some birds will look raggedy during this time- it may be particularly noticeable in Eclectus and Gouldian Finches. It is important to note that molting will not result in bald spots or large downy patches- areas like this usually indicate feather picking or plucking. There are supplements that can be added to the diet during molting to help replace the depleted nutrients:

Feather Fast – A powdered supplement containing a variety of nutrients designed to aid in molting for all birds.

Liquid Iodine – A liquid supplement that is aids in molting for Gouldians and other Australian finches.

Kaytee Molting & Conditioning – A supplement / seed mixture for small birds to replace nutrients used while molting.